DIY Help & Advice : Architrave : Skirting : Boxing In Pipes : DIY How To

DIY Projects - Fitting architraves

Architrave is the trim around a door, over time the architrave can become damaged with items being banged against it, especially children's toys. It may be that as a decorative feature, a plain architrave is going to be replaced with a more ornate design, or a painted architrave that has many coats and is badly chipped is being replaced with new so that it can be varnished.

	Use a crowbar to prise away the old architrave, start on any side and work from the bottom upwards continually moving the crowbar to a new position. Place a block of wood beneath the crowbar to prevent damage to the wall surface.
	With the old architrave removed, prepare the door frame for the new architrave. Use a claw hammer or pincers to remove any old nails that may have been left behind and remove any old paint from the surface using a sanding block.
	Measure the internal width of the door frame and add 12mm (1/2") to the overall length, this will allow the architrave to be set back from the inside of the frame.
	Mark out the required length on the bottom edge of the architrave, use a mitre box to cut the ends at 45° making sure that the top edge of the architrave is longer than the bottom.
	Nail the architrave in place starting with the top length. Set it back from the door frame by 6mm (1/4") and make sure that an equal amount projects at each side.
	Fit the side lengths by butting them up to the top length and making sure that they too are set back from the edge of the door frame by 6mm (1/4"). Punch all the nail heads below the surface and fill the holes and any gaps between the mitred ends with wood filler, sand down and either paint or varnish.

DIY Projects - Replacing skirting boards

Skirting boards are fitted where a wall meets the floor, this prevents the wall from being scuffed and damaged by peoples feet and items of furniture. It also breaks up the wall and provides an added feature. It may be necessary to remove and replace skirting boards where they have become worn or damaged, or it might be that you want to replace a painted skirting board with a more natural wood look, or decorative design.

	Prise away the old skirting using a crowbar, place a block of wood between the crowbar and wall surface to prevent damage to the wall. Start from an external corner or where the skirting meets an architrave, but be careful not to damage the architrave, if this is not being replaced.
	Measure the length of the skirting required. If the length of skirting is finishing on an external corner then mark the back edge of the skirting and use a mitre box to cut an angle of 45° making sure that the front edge is longer than the back.
	If the length of skirting is finishing in an internal corner then rather than making a mitre joint, make a straight cut. Most mitre boxes have guides that allow for straight cuts or you can use a try square.
	Place one length of skirting at 90° to the other, line up the edges and draw around the profile.
	It is usually better to cut a profile of the skirting and butt them together. This prevents the mismatch that can occur when a skirting with a shaped mouldings is mitred.
	Use a jigsaw or a coping saw to cut along the marked line, this will allow the skirting to fit neatly over the adjacent length.
	Fasten the skirting in place, if the skirting is being fitted to a studded wall, a contact adhesive may be sufficient or you can nail into the battens. If the skirting is being fitted to a masonry wall then use the original fixing positions which are usually wooden wedges that have been inserted in the masonry. Punch any nail heads below the surface and fill the holes and any gaps between the mitred ends with wood filler, sand down and either paint or varnish.

DIY Projects - Boxing in pipes

Pipes are often run on the surface of a wall, these may look unsightly and would be better hidden from view. The easiest way to achieve this is to build a box around the pipes. If there are any hand valves, drain cocks or fittings make the panel removable for easy access. If regular access is required the panel can be hinged and a catch fitted.

Measure the distance from the wall to the front of the pipes, allowing for clips, or fittings such as valves. Add 12mm (1/2") for clearance, then use timber battens for the sides. Drill holes through the battens so the screws can pass straight through, place the battens on the wall, use a spirit level to line them up vertically and mark the wall. Drill and plug the wall and secure the battens in place.

	Measure the external width of the two side battens and cut a front panel using plywood or MDF to the required width. If the panel does not need to be removed use nails to secure in place, if access is required use screws, but first drill holes through the front panel large enough for the screw body to pass through. MDF safety precautions
	Any sections where access is not required can be decorated over with wallpaper or tiles, to match up with the existing decor. Make sure any bleed valves or vents are outside the boxed area or easy access is provided with a hinged panel.